To get that nice aged metal look on a leather mask, I use my finger to dab paint onto the surface. Because my finger is soft and has some give, it makes soft transitions and also when dabbing lightly it only affects the raised surfaces of the masks, which is what you want if you're going for a patina feel.
(I did a full tutorial on this effect. "How to Create a Buffed Metal Look in Leather" )
|After dabbing with your finger, accentuate the random|
highlights with a small brush.
PROTIP: Don't use your nice brushes for craft acrylic painting. They sell multi packs of cheap brushes of every size plus foam square brushes at most craft stores. Acrylic dries to a permanient flexy goo in your brushes, so remember to wash up afterwards with soap or brush cleaner! I tend to use my retired watercolor brushes after their bristles fray.
Well now, looking spiffy there, Mr. Sexy Assassin Man!
But we're not through yet! Notice how dull the black areas are? It's time to varnish. I use Liquitex Satin Varnish because it dries flexible, but also brings a nice subtle sheen to the mask. I don't like using Glossy because it seems too shiny and overpowering for my tastes. The other great thing about Satin is that the difference between your metallic and dull areas still show through so they're not all an equal level of shiny. That subtle contrast between iridescent and dull areas is what makes a mask like this so stunning.
PROTIP: Do not use Matte sheen if you want to preserve the metallic look of your paint! It will make it instantly dull looking.
Now that the mask is all varnished up and ready to go. Time to punch holes for the ribbons. I use a rotary hole punch set to the 2nd largest hole setting.
|You can tell where to punch the hole by lining it up with the|
angle of the corner of the eyehole.
|(Just don't tell any assassin wearing this mask that|
he's wearing a pretty dancer's shoe lace!)
And that's it! You're ready to wear this mask to the ball...and shank a foo!